Beyond the Grave: Translations from the Paris Catacombs

WP_20170413_15_21_27_Pro

“Wherever you go, death follows, [as] a body’s shadow.”

It took over 3 years of living here, a visiting 10-year-old’s bucket list, and 4 hours* in line on a Spring Break weekday, but I finally paid my respects to a few of the 6 million Parisiens whose bones line the Paris catacombs. Besides the historical and geological information provided in the better lit areas, most of what kept the experience contemplatively macabre rather than ghoulish were the inscriptions, quotes, and verses interspersed throughout. Since most are in French or Latin, I thought I’d take a crack at a few translations** in the hopes of contributing to your experience of the place, whether you’re visiting in person or in spirit. WP_20170413_15_26_14_Pro

So all things pass upon the earth
Spirit, beauty, grace, talent
Ephemeral as a flower
Tossed by the slightest breeze

 

WP_20170413_15_27_01_Pro

from “Pensée des morts” by Alphonse de Lamartine

 

They were as we are

Dust, the wind’s plaything

Fragile as men

Feeble as the void

 

 

WP_20170413_15_30_47_Pro

“Our days flowed like water”

wp_20170413_15_31_16_pro.jpg

 

 

“Where is death? always future or past

No sooner is she present than she is no more”

 

WP_20170413_15_32_40_Pro

from “Cour des rois, élément plus mobile que l’onde…” by Antoine-Marin Lemierre

What enclosures are open! What narrow spaces
Between these walls hold the dust of races!
It is in these places of oblivion, it is among these tombs
That time and death come to cross their scythes.
So many dead piled and pressed under the Earth!
Numbers here mean nothing; the crowd is lonely.

 

WP_20170413_15_42_12_Pro

from “Ode, le Soleil fixe” by Jacques Charles Louis de Clinchamp de Malfilâtre

Fools: we speak from authority,

We who in the ocean of beings

Swim sadly muddled,

We whose gossamer existence,

Like the passing shadow,

Begins, appears, and is gone

* If you decide the four-hour wait will not contribute greatly to your experience of the Catacombs, and you know the exact day and time you want to go more than 24 hours in advance, you can buy coupe-file (cut the line) tickets. Tickets are usually 12 euros for adults, 10 euros for students, and free for children under 18, with optional audio-guides for 5 euros each. Coupe-file tickets will run you 27 euros for adults and 5 euros for children, with the audio-guides included.

** As my Latin and French are both imperfect, I’d welcome any comments with corrections/ suggestions for better translations!

All photos and translations: Jenn Cavanaugh

European Heritage Days, 33rd Edition

So the president called. He wondered if you wanted to stop by his place sometime next weekend. If you’re not too busy hanging out at the television studio, the National Assembly, or the Sorbonne, that is.

Living in Paris we already enjoy easy access to some of the world’s most amazing cultural heritage sites, but one weekend a year, the Journées Européenes du Patrimoine issue us all backstage passes to see the less accessible bits. This September 17-18 more than 17,000 monuments across the country will host more than 26,000 special events and openings to celebrate the theme of Heritage and Citizenship.

Venues range wildly from farms to palaces and from a photography studio featuring celebrity headshots to a dermatological museum featuring lifelike casts of skin diseases, but here are few highlights:

Elysée Palace: We regret to inform you that the President’s invitation was not terribly exclusive. In fact, his residence is the most visited site during this weekend, with lines usually several hours long. It opens at 8 am both days, though, so early risers will have a distinct advantage.

Hôtel de Ville: If you’re willing to settle for seeing where the mayor hangs out you might be able to skip the line altogether. Last year they were experimenting with an app that would text you when it’s your turn to enter, freeing you up for a civilized cup of coffee or browse around the farmer’s market, Saint-Gervais, or BHV while you wait.

WP_20150919_003

Stained glass representing various guilds and trades at the Hôtel de Ville (photo: Jason Pratt)

The American Church: The ultimate in Anglophone expat heritage sites here in Paris. We do go back together, us and Paris.

Musée des Arts Forains: A visit to this collection of old-timey carnival games and rides is great for children of all ages, Ray Bradbury fans, and anyone unenthused by the prospect of another weekend touring palaces.

WP_20140920_10_59_38_Pro

Live performances by magicians and acrobats and eerily life-like performances by automatons throughout the weekend at the Musée des Arts Forains. (photo: Jenn Cavanaugh)

Special exhibitions: “Terrain-tested Travelers” at Archives Nationales; “Homages to the Victims of the November 13, 2015 Attacks: from the Street to the Archives” at Archives Départementales et Communales de Paris.

Activities: ride vintage buses at the Maison de la RATP, watch silent movies at the Jérôme Seydoux-Pathé Foundation, or sign up in advance to climb the Tour Saint-Jacques.

European Heritage Days

Saturday, September 17 – Sunday, September 18

See http://journeesdupatrimoine.culturecommunication.gouv.fr/ for the official program of venues, events, and opening times in French. Most sites offer free entry, but their listing will specify if there are any charges for special events, tours, workshops. A drop down menu in the top right corner of the main page will translate content into English, German, Italian or Spanish. You can also like them on Facebook or follow them on Twitter for the latest info.

Evous offers a more user-friendly experience in French only, organizing venues thematically and by arrondissement at http://www.evous.fr/Les-Journees-du-Patrimoine-a-Paris

 

Flânerie and Flâneuserie

Lauren Elkin has written a great piece for The Paris Review, full of excellent definitions and reflections inspired by a new Hermès campaign. I’ll be needing to track down “The Walking Woman” by Mary Austin now.

Flânerie, he explained, is not about “being idle” or “doing nothing.” It’s an “attitude of curiosity … about exploring everything.

The flâneuse is the kind of woman who writes books, and the kind they write books about. You’re not worried about the flâneuse walking alone in the city: she knows how to stand up for herself.

Flâneuserie—to coin a term—is about women moving from being looked at to looking.

The flâneuse is someone who gets to know the city by wandering its streets, investigating its dark corners, peering behind its façades, penetrating its secret courtyards. Rather than wandering aimlessly, like the flâneur, the most salient characteristic of the flâneuse is that she goes where she’s not supposed to.

A Typical Evening Abroad

It turns out that Kid 2 didn’t have school pictures today. There’s a calendar in one of her dozen notebooks that says they will be tomorrow, even though we signed something yesterday saying they would be today. She says the teachers told the class that they have no idea when picture day will be. Since picture day costuming and coiffure now require a level of impassioned negotiation usually reserved for international peace summits, we have a lot to look forward to. Indefinitely.

Kid 1 is also supposed to have picture day tomorrow, along with a swim test. She’s nervous because she’s not a great swimmer and has no idea what level of competence is required to pass the swim test or what happens if she doesn’t, but she’s pretty sure it means she won’t get to go kayaking with her class. Also, she’s supposed to wear pajamas over her swimsuit, and she needs her hair up to go under her swim cap. Did I mention it’s supposed to be picture day?

Cue quick menu change when Kid 1 comments how weird it will be to have zucchini tart for dinner at home after having zucchini tart for lunch at school. We find this difficult to believe, but the famously advertised school lunch menu hasn’t been updated since May, so we tell her we’ll buy it this time, but she’ll have to come up with something more credible next time she tries to talk her way out of dinner.

Actually, I would feed the child zucchini tart morning, noon, and night, but I didn’t have time to make it, because we had to go and open the mail.

And there was a letter (in my mailbox) informing me that the post office couldn’t deliver something to me about a month ago because I don’t have a mailbox – and I need to take action in the next 15 days or it will be returned to the sender. Never mind that I’ve had plenty of things delivered before and since. Never mind that I had actually been to the post office in the interim, ID in hand, to pick up another package that they called me on the phone to tell me about. Never mind that the post office took over 3 weeks to deliver the letter, so the package has already been returned to the sender. Whoever that is. It is, apparently, a matter of national security never to let addressees know where their packages originate. Did I mention we live across the street from the post office?

To be fair, I too would be tempted to say

To be fair, I too would be tempted to say “screw it, it can’t be done” and knock off a bit early once every few hundred times I had to confront one of these monstrosities.

So the best part is having no way of knowing if it was something important or not. I may have spent the better part of an hour crafting an email that will net me life-changing test results, documents I need to stay in the country legally, or merely a third request from my bank to update some useless information I’ve already updated twice. If experience holds, it will be a week-long process of admitting total fault and general unworthiness before anyone will even tell me who my package was from. And when I do find out, chances are high that it will be a nested problem – an official court summons for unpaid parking tickets on a vehicle I don’t own, perhaps. Or maybe it’s a laundry detergent sample.

This is our new normal, quiet evening at home. This is us settling in for the year, getting cozy even. We limbered up our head-shaking and eye-rolling muscles for the season with some decent gin and tonic that had gone flat while seeking out said gin in the course of my daily rambles, managed a nice back-up dinner and a traumatic Band-Aid removal before showers, talked about how to pack for a trip four months from now instead of about tomorrow’s cryptically convened meeting with the big boss, and decided the best plan to get to sleep would be not to worry about the swim test, but to imagine everyone in her class getting their pictures taken in wet pajamas and swim caps. In short: the usual. This is a benchmark of our typical background level of niggling unknowns. The little questions of the inscrutable present that protect us from the larger unknowns of the future that we all will always have with us.

TOASTED COCONUT-NUTELLA MUFFINS / MUFFINS NUTELLA-NOIX DE COCO GRILLÉE

NUTELLA MUFFINThere are numerous reasons to take the plunge and move the family abroad for a few years, but avoiding no-notice school bake sales ain’t one of ’em. Apparently it’s a universal. So, what to do when you’ve already gone grocery shopping 6 places in the last 2 days and your daughter bops out of school at a quarter to five giddily informing you that her class gets to bring treats for tomorrow’s goûter gourmand? You concoct a new recipe using the few items you happen to have in abundance on your whopping three-and-a-half kitchen shelves, translate the recipe into French to double as your “oral presentation” for class tomorrow since you no longer have time to think of anything else, and then post the whole shebang to your blog because they turned out pas mal. The best part was that the coconut toasted itself as the muffins baked, so no extra steps or dishes. The worst was trying to describe the layering process in French. Not my forte, as evidenced by my last few haircuts here, but I digress….

TOASTED COCONUT-NUTELLA MUFFINS (makes 18 muffins)

 Ingredients:

  • 150g (2/3 cup) unsalted butter
  • 200g (1 cup) granulated sugar
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 250 mL (1 cup) coconut milk
  • 300g (2-1/3 cups) white flour
  • 80g (2/3 cup) whole wheat flour
  • 3 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 18 teaspoons Nutella
  • 40g (app. 9 tsp.) grated, unsweetened coconut

Directions:

Preheat oven to 220C (425F). Grease muffin tin or fill with paper liners and set aside.

In a large bowl, cream together softened butter and sugar. Mix in the eggs, vanilla extract, and coconut milk. Stir in flours, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt until just combined. Do not overmix.

Spoon 1 heaping soupspoon of batter into each muffin cup. Layer each with 1 teaspoon Nutella in the center and spoon another heaping soupspoon of batter on top.

Bake at 220C (425F) for 5 minutes. Without opening the door, reduce temperature to 180C (350F) and bake for an additional 13 minutes. Allow muffins to cool for about 5 minutes in pan, then remove to finish cooling.

MUFFINS NUTELLA-NOIX DE COCO GRILLÉE (pour 18 muffins)

 Ingrédients :

  • 150g de beurre doux
  • 200g de sucre en poudre
  • 2 gros œufs
  • 2 cuillères à café d’extrait de vanille
  • 250 ml de lait de coco
  • 300g de farine de blé
  • 80g de farine de blé complète
  • 3 cuillères à café de levure chimique
  • 1 cuillère à café de cannelle moulue
  • 1/2 cuillère à café de muscade moulue
  • 1 cuillère à café de sel
  • 18 cuillères à café de Nutella (vers 300g)
  • 9 cuillères à café de noix de coco râpée (vers 40g)

Préparation :

Préchauffer le four à 220C. Placer des moules à muffins en papier dans une plaque moule en métal.

Dans un grand saladier, travailler le beurre en crème avec le sucre. Incorporer les œufs, vanille et lait de coco au mélange. Ajouter les farines, la levure, la cannelle, la muscade et le sel et remuer jusqu’à ce que les ingrédients forment une pâte. Laissez tout de même quelques petits grumeaux.

Verser 1 cuillère à soupe comble de pâte dans chaque moule à muffin. Placer une cuillère à café de Nutella dans le centre de chacune et coucher avec une autre cuillère à soupe bien pleine de pâte au-dessus.

Faites cuire à four à 220C pendant 5 minutes. Sans ouvrir la porte, réduire la température à 180C et faire cuire encore 13 minutes. Laisser les muffins refroidir pendant 5 minutes dans le moule en métal, puis les retirer pour continuer le refroidissement complet.

Paris Travel Tips: When to Go

Paris has seasons like no other city I know. Weather-wise, it is temperate enough to enjoy year-round, but it still has Seasons to rival those of the American Midwest. While the city’s moods and vibes may not correspond directly to those found in nature, like seasons they are cyclical, none are intrinsically superior to the others, everyone has a favourite anyway, and you’ll always have a better time if you dress and set your expectations accordingly.

January-mid February: If it snows in Paris, it’s generally just enough to provide a welcome respite from the rain, not enough to hamper movement.  The best reasons to come during this time are airfare sales and bargain clothes shopping, as the winter sales season runs from about the second week of January to the second week of February (the beginning of February being the sweet spot when items have been marked down for the third and final time and they may still have your size.)

hdvskating  Mid-late February: Parisian families head for the slopes or abroad if at all possible during the 2-week school vacation. Flights that reverse this migration become surprisingly reasonable. There are often special events, extended hours and discounts for kids and families and this will be the last hurrah for all the fun winter activities like rock-climbing by the Seine, ice skating at the Hotel de Ville, etc.

March-May: Ah, April in Paris…. We’ve just come off a gorgeous couple of weeks here, culminating in a breezy, sunny 80-degree day yesterday. All the trees are filling out and blooming. Just keep in mind spring doesn’t often start until May, when you can still expect temperatures to remain in the fifties and low sixties. If you’re visiting from Southern California or Florida, the softening effect of the longer days and general thaw will be lost on you. There will be another 2-week school vacation in April, so definitely look for the reverse migratory airfares. Just pack for anything between February and June, and bring allergy meds.

Along the Champs-Elysées

Along the Champs-Elysées

June- July: This is the actual Springtime of Paris, when the natives begin shedding a layer or two and returning every fifth smile, you can enjoy all those lovely terrasses (if you can stand the smoke), and the sun shines brighter and, most importantly, later. As penance for all those 2-week breaks throughout the year, kids don’t get out of school here until the second week of July, so Disneyland is still all yours.

August: The leading cause of disillusionment with Paris. This is when “planning accordingly” comes to the fore; it will require additional savvy and savoir-faire to enjoy Paris in August, but it can be done. If there was ever a time to stray from the beaten and unevenly cobbled path, it’s now. This is the height, or rather, the depth of tourist season. The Parisians’ natural response to this is to close their restaurant, shop, or office and run away for as much of the month as possible. Understand that Paris is literally teeming with tourists and the only Parisians left in town to take care of them are feeling deprived of their vacation to do so. You still have to go the Louvre, but buy tickets ahead of time. Skip the Eiffel Tower, have a nice lunch at the Tour Montparnasse and take in the view of Paris and the Eiffel Tower. Enjoy Paris’s natural and not-so-natural graces if you come in August. Skip the surly wait staff and picnic in the parks, hike, or go horseback-riding through the forests (yes, Paris has forests – amaze your friends and visit one!).  Pretend you’re on vacation; take an afternoon and hang out at the impromptu imported beach they fabricate by the Seine.

museedorsay

September-November: This is the sweet spot, if you ask me. The local kids are back-to-school, the local grown-ups are back-to-work in earnest and the tourists seem to have forgotten the place exists. Things start working properly again and the city gets into its groove. The weather is just as good (or bad) as it is in the spring. It doesn’t get consistently gruesome until winter proper sets in, sometimes there’s a bit of an Indian summer, but it will probably rain at least twice a week, so you can spend all the time you want guilt-free in your favorite museums and cafés.

ndxmas

December: Paris excels at Christmas. Think New York with all the shop windows and no snow. The churches all set out their wonderfully unique nativity scenes and host even more classical music concerts. Extra little markets selling handicrafts, comfort food, and spiced wine crop up every few blocks. And since most Parisians don’t get much time off until after Christmas, the days prior can feel like your own private winter wonderland.

Comme II Faut: High-Context Living on a Low-Context Budget

Anthropologist Edward T. Hall, collector extraordinaire of cultural factors, coined a couple of terms that are proving very useful to me lately. He writes,

“High context transactions feature pre-programmed information that is in the receiver and in the setting, with only minimal information in the transmitted message. Low context transactions are the reverse. Most of the information must be in the transmitted message in order to make up for what is missing in the context.”*

Think of the difference between a Japanese ryokan with its placard-free ritualistic communal bathing experience and an American motel with 25 rules posted about how to use the pool. Some cultures operate more generally on high-context transactions than others. It’s why the Japanese know the appropriate way to get naked with strangers and Americans need to be told not to dive into a concrete-cased body of water three-feet-deep.

A classic response from both parties following a mixed high-low context transaction might be “Why did they bother saying that?” Americans read emails from their French or Japanese colleagues and wonder at how their most straightforward requests for information are met with vagaries adrift in polite stock phrases. Their Japanese and French counterparts receive bullet-point instructions from the Americans and wonder at the bluntness and inanity of articulating every minute detail of what is, after all, their job.

My working definition as a navigator of such cultures and transactions is as follows: a high-context culture is one in which the people closest to you communicate their respect for you by not spelling out everything that must be done and when things don’t work out perfect strangers feel free to tell you what you should have done differently; a low-context culture is one in which perfect strangers feel free to tell you exactly what you should do and when things don’t work out the people closest to you communicate their support for you by commiserating about how things should have worked. The principle differences lie in what is spoken and what is unspoken, in what is assumed to be common knowledge and standard operating procedure vs. what expectations must be communicated to be assumed.

obviously

Living in France is not my first major experience of moving from a low-context to a high-context culture, but it is possibly the most socially binding one. Japan has a higher context culture by any definition of the term, and I lived there both as a child and as an adult for over five years in total. (It doesn’t get much more high-context than changing the word for “I” to reflect the social status of the person you are addressing.) The Japanese, however, are hyper-conscious of the fact that they live by a unique code that outsiders find incomprehensible and that they find inexplicable and they therefore issue an automatic and comprehensive exemption to foreigners. Exceptions will be made and not taken as a matter of course whenever anyone visibly not Japanese is involved.**

The French are generally considered to have one of the highest context cultures in Western Europe, but they do not seem as self-aware of this particular distinction. It seems to me that the general sense that things ought to be done comme il faut (as things ought to be done) is often stronger and more generally applied for not having been consciously examined. Where the Japanese will politely overlook gaijin gaffes which they would contemplate hara-kiri for committing themselves, the French will consistently correct tourists’ misguided pronunciation, course pairings, and sartorial choices on the assumption that their visitors would rather not be doing things wrong. The customer is not always right, but he or she may be righted.

Of course, no culture is uniformly high or low context any more than any person is uniformly defined by their culture. All societies have pockets that are higher and lower culture. Any group of people who interact with one another regularly becomes higher context. When anyone in my extended family says “That’s how Cousin Catie broke her leg” we know the whole story and exactly what we are being admonished against doing, but you are left to wonder. I think, too, that most of us long for higher or lower context transactions than our prevailing cultures typically afford. We admire people who always seem to know how to comport themselves in any situation and we seek the company of straight-talkers. French people regularly confess to me that they find the French too negative. They often feel trapped and discouraged by their own complex and mysterious bureaucracies and cultural expectations and they are looking forward to some American optimism and free-spiritedness in our conversations. I bounce back from disheartening impasses in trying to decode school enrollment or medical billing systems by getting to know the city itself. I’ll be made to feel utterly ignorant on a regular basis, but I’m always buoyed when giving directions to lost French tourists. Everyone knows something better than the people around them. What Americans often interpret as Gallic arrogance is really just the French holding onto this truth for comfort and dear life. Remember, outside their areas of expertise they are thwarted and treated as ignorant just as much as you are. Letting the experts be expert on your behalf is where high-context cultures shine. Approaching an actual person who seems to be in the know, confessing ignorance, and asking for help is humbling to us rugged individualists, but it’s how things are done here. And, in the end, much less humbling than never getting your utilities set up or finding the Louvre.

Cultural values and interpretations shift over time...

Cultural values and interpretations shift over time…

The effects of moving from a decidedly low-context West Coast American culture to a deceptively higher context culture are heightened considerably when one is not fluent in the language. The hardest part of picking up the language in Japan was that you can’t pick up the language in Japan. Reading is the hardest part. But in French, reading is by far my preferred means of getting information. Week one I could get the gist of the articles in the free metro newspapers, and if I don’t get something the first time around I can make another pass or break out the dictionary. Especially after being so conspicuously “other” in Japan, I would much prefer to walk around Paris mute, to “pass” as a local, glean what I can and look up all the explanations for what I’ve seen later online. The Internet is the perfect tool of the low-context culture: great gobs of information passively, generally and impersonally made available to the masses in written form and I can access it independently, in private, as needed, and on my own time. But it doesn’t work here. French websites remind me of Japanese pastries. They look like someone recreated a website from a picture of a website. They may be pleasing to the eye, promising to supply what you crave (the address and opening hours of a store, chocolate, etc.), but when you bite into it, it doesn’t taste like much. You click the buttons and nothing happens. Even if you manage to extract some information you cannot act on it online. In France problems are only solved in collaboration with another person, which means in person or on the phone. Ideally in person because, well, there’s more context – for all involved. I can ask to see what the form they need looks like, I can get a better read on if they are trying to move me toward a solution or just trying to move me along, I can see their lips move and thereby catch one additional word in ten, they can see that I’m trying, and presence alone counts for much.

I don’t particularly like talking on the phone in the best of circumstances, but here.… Let’s just say I change my ringtone quarterly in the hopes that someday I may achieve some confluence of calm and confidence that won’t send my pulse racing whenever I hear it. For me, receiving a phone call is the epitome of no context in a high context culture. The typical French caller gets in about four sentences in the time it takes the average American to say “Hi, this is ___.  I’m calling about _____.” – none of which is remotely like “Hi, this is ___. I’m calling about ____.” If they do offer a name or a company, it is inevitably lost in the onrush of excusing oneself ornately for bothering one but would one happen to have a moment because something has come to one’s attention that will require one’s attention and did one receive already anyone’s earlier attempt at communication referring to this? Allo? ear art

High-context languages can often go on at length without defining a subject.*** The longer one can go without saying directly what one is talking about, the more polite the discourse. Strangers to such languages are, of course, treated more politely, being strangers and all. The better my French gets the more I have the experience of understanding exactly what the person on the other end of the line said, but having no idea what they mean by it, or even who they are or what we’re talking about. My husband still does better on the phone than I do by starting every conversation with the customary “I’m sorry, I don’t speak French well.” I find I say that more now than a year ago, when it was more true and I’m getting a lot more done. It repositions us from the person who does this for a living and the person who doesn’t have a clue to the expert and person in need of help.

Comments? Corrections? Corroborative anecdotes? Post them below!

Notes:

*Hall. Beyond Culture (Garden City, N.Y.: Anchor Press, 1976), 101.

**Nikkeijin find themselves at a distinct disadvantage under this system. Non-Asians who have lived in the country for a decade might find themselves literally applauded for stumbling out “I restaurant to go” and using chopsticks when they get there while an American tourist who never knew his Japanese grandmother will be on the hook for using an overly casual form of the verb or pronoun and not using the proper counting systems for the round vs. flat portions of his order.

***Japanese sentences require only a verb and a level of formality, for example, “rather politely going returning.” Who is going? Where? Why? When will they be back? Well, it’s obvious if you are there when it is said. It means “Well, I’m off to work, then.  I’ll be back around six o’clock as usual. And it’s Thursday, so I’ll pick up Junior from soccer practice on my way. Thanks for taking care of the baby and getting the dog to the vet. I can’t imagine what we’d do without you. I’m so looking forward to coming home to my family this evening.” Obviously.

The French make copious use of the pronoun “on” which can mean anything from you and me, i.e. “us,” to some nameless, faceless, benign or dastardly “them,” or some impersonal exemplar in between.

Camembert and Apple Tart

A little something for your Pi Day – à la française. Not that the French celebrate Pi Day, the joke being lost on those who think of today as 14.03.15. This is part of my small, but growing collection of recipes that involve less fuss and money to make in France than back home – cheese, bundled herbs and actually tasty all-butter pastry shells are some of the cheapest foodstuffs available here – but it doesn’t call for anything too exotic. pi1

Camembert and Apple Tart

1 prepared 9-inch pie crust or puff pastry

3 large apples

Salt and pepper to taste

1-1/2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar

1 Tbsp. olive oil

1 camembert, 250g/8-9 oz.

8-10 stalks of fresh thyme or 2 tsp. dried

Place the pie shell in a pie or tart pan. Prick all over with a fork and blind-bake for 5-8 minutes in a preheating 350-degree oven. Core and slice the apples very thin and arrange in pie shell. Salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar and olive oil. Cut camembert into 12 wedges and space evenly on top of apples. Strip the thyme leaves off the stalks over the tart. Bake at 350 degrees for 20-25 minutes or until crust is golden and the cheese wedge interiors have melted thoroughly. Serve with a green salad with balsamic vinaigrette. Serves 4-6. pi2

Another Reason to Have Pancakes for Dinner

Not that you need a particular reason, of course, but in France c’est La Chandeleur! Which, being translated, means Crepe Party! Actually, the more traditional translation is Candlemas, and there are plenty of other seasonal and culinary traditions that go along with it all over the world. In Mexico it calls for tamales, which sounds equally tantalizing, but the accompanying running with the bulls (and search for banana leaves or corn husks) not so much, so we’re keeping it local style again this year.

Buckwheat Crepe with Rotisserie Chicken and Emmental

Buckwheat Crepe with Rotisserie Chicken and Emmental

By some strange coincidence, February 2nd is both the rather goofy custom of Groundhog’s Day and the rather more solemn feast of Candlemas, a holiday celebrating the Presentation of Jesus at the Temple, his Meeting with Simeon and Anna, and the Purification of Mary. Random, right? Not at all. The two are intimately connected. (The Super Bowl, however, is a moveable feast and so, no matter what anybody tells you today, not particularly related to this episode in the story of divine revelation.) Christians have been observing the interconnected events commemorated by Candlemas since the 4th or 5th century. Mary took Jesus with her to the temple to be dedicated as the firstborn and for her own rite of purification 40 days after he was born according to Jewish law. According to the New Testament Simeon recognized that the child would be a light to the Gentiles, hence the candle motif and the Eastern church’s name for the day: Hypapante, or “Meeting.”presentation_of_jesus_at_the_temple_by_fra_angelico_28san_marco_cell_1029

“Presentation in the Temple” by Fra Angelico. Come to think of it, in these portrayals with the swaddling clothes and halo, Jesus looks rather candle-like himself.

As Candlemas falls close to the midpoint of winter, it accrued additional cultural significance in many countries. It marked the really, truly bitter end of the Christmas season, when all the decorations must come down and people mentally moved on to wondering when they could safely plant some more food already. Around this time the wild beasts, dormant during the brunt of the season, would tentatively emerge to gauge if the worst of the weather had passed or if a longer winter’s nap might be in order. In the UK, folks expected to see anything from wolves to snakes to bears, but badgers were somehow singled out as nature’s forecasters in this regard – I’m guessing because they made for less dangerous viewing. Badgers apparently being in shorter supply in Germany and the New World, the Pennsylvania Dutch made do with a woodchuck or groundhog. So Punxsutawney Phil is essentially the Easter Bunny of Candlemas. Incidentally, if you’re one of the 3 in 7 Americans who can never remember if seeing his shadow means six more weeks of winter or if it’s the other way around perhaps it’s the French influence. They have contradictory traditional sayings which predict that a sunny Chandeleur portends the final hour and/or the first of forty more days of winter. What the French can agree on, however, is that crepes must be eaten today or dire consequences will ensue. The Celts just lumped it in with Imbolc and St. Brigid’s Day and called it Spring already. The Welsh actually retired their candles on Candlemas as there was finally enough light to work by in the mornings and evenings. It is traditionally the day the snowdrops first bloom, but here we’re still living on forced bulbs T.S. Eliot referred to in “A Song for Simeon”

Lord, the Roman hyacinths are blooming in bowls and The winter sun creeps by the snow hills; The stubborn season has made stand.

In Poland blessed candles are sent home with the parishioners for the express purpose of lighting during the worst of the storms to come. It does seem to be the time of year when the body has its fill of winter, picking up on the lengthening of the days, and wondering if the weather will ever cooperate. Phil, that Gloomy Gus, has predicted a full winter this year, per usual, even without seeing his shadow. Staten Island Chuck begs to differ, but he’s probably just feeling overly optimistic since he didn’t die making his prediction this year. Also, he was probably rooting for the Patriots. Robert Herrick probably offers the best advice for hastening the season along. Pack away the Christmas (and the Seahawks) themed décor and bring in the freshest greens as they transition from evergreen to deciduous, from forced to spontaneous blooms. Light the candles, whip up some comfort food, whether that be crepes or tamales, and remember Spring is Coming.

Thus times do shift; each thing his turn does hold; New things succeed, as former things grow old.  - "Ceremonies upon Candlemas Eve" by Robert Herrick Thus times do shift; each thing his turn does hold; New things succeed, as former things grow old. – “Ceremonies upon Candlemas Eve” by Robert Herrick

Solidarité and Résistance at Place de la République

rep1

This is not how I’d planned to kick off this blog about living and traveling abroad, but this really is the gist of it: mingling your fate with that of a culture which inevitably undermines your instincts; alternately lacking and surprising yourself and others with the skills or insight necessary to navigate and contribute to it; often just playing the observer.

I don’t have any great wisdom or novelty to add to the global conversations that yesterday’s shooting at Charlie Hebdo has sparked, or rather re-ignited, as the conversations themselves are nothing new, either. It’s not that I feel unqualified to speak because in this case there is no great cultural disconnect; weaponized muddle-headedness is the new banality of evil. I simply don’t wish to contribute to the banality by rehearsing it. No one needs convincing that this attack was wrong, senseless and tragic. Others can preach the value of freedom of speech and of the press better than I, but it feels significant to me to exercise those freedoms today, in Paris, as a small act of résistance and solidarité.

Those two cognates regularly impress me with their expanded significance in French. Résistance, of course, carries with it additional connotations of life under occupation, the subversive and discreet ways in which one can put up a fight, a kind of stamina and commitment to life going on, staying power that can only be measured by testing. The word can mean most of those things in English, but it seems to always mean all of it in French. In English I can hear the struggle and potential futility in it – a helpless, thrashing “No….” as one’s being carried off against one’s will. In French, however, it’s the strength of holding one’s ground, symbolized last night by the pens held in upraised fists – the quiet refusal to be silenced.

rep5      rep6

Americans seldom use the word “solidarity” in everyday life; it’s such a tremendously serious and politically charged word. I think that solidarité is as well, but the French use it all the time. Actions that we soften with words like sympathy, empathy, charity, neighborliness, or “thoughts & prayers” are solidarité here. A fire sweeps through an apartment block. They don’t set up a clothing donation site; that’s a centre de solidarité. So are most places we might call a food bank or nonprofit organization or support center. My first impulse was to think this cheapened the word a bit, to call giving away my kids’ old clothes “solidarity,” but it’s growing on me. It recognizes an intangible corporate strength, but demands some concrete action that “thinking of you” won’t cut. It appeals more to the French sense of égalité than the American sense of charity. Americans give to appease our consciences that someone is worse off than us. The French stand together to acknowledge that what happened to you could happen to me, so let’s get through this together. Hence, Je suis Charlie.

rep7

I dropped my younger daughter off at school this morning and just kept walking until I ended up at Place de la République, where thousands of Parisians gathered in solidarité last night. By lucky guess or some accident of dress or comportment, a roving BBC radio crew approached me as a potential Anglophone to interview.  I didn’t have much to say and they didn’t demand much of me. They asked me why I had come and about the mood on the streets and it struck me as a form of résistance that people were making their everyday way to work and school. This being France, I had no doubt that every one of them was completely informed about and deeply touched by yesterday’s events a few blocks away. One early English language report I read yesterday had mentioned that the streets were “eerily silent” and I was glad to have an opportunity to use my English to refute that, because it was not at all the case. Parisians are some of the best in the world at reclaiming their streets, and that’s why I had stopped by today – to pay my respects and see how it was done.

rep2